Hand-made watering cans are generally used by everyone. Everyone knows that the nozzle caps are tightly screwed and loosened to adjust the diameter of the jetted water column and how much water is discharged.
After a long period of use, it is often difficult to use the fault. My watering can uses piston wear and retires because the piston has not changed.
When the watering can is not used normally, as long as there is pressure in the kettle. The one-way door is closed under the pressure of the compressed air, and the switch rod is pressed against the rubber pad under the action of the spring, and the water cannot be ejected.
When the handle is lifted, the one-way door is closed, the water cannot come up, the movable apron moves down, a negative pressure is formed under the piston, and the outside air enters from the side of the handlebar and enters the piston through the notch of the lower end of the piston.
When the handle is pressed, the movable apron moves up, the blocked passage air cannot escape upward, the air is compressed to form a relatively large positive pressure, the one-way door is pushed away by the compressed air, and the compressed air enters the kettle and accumulates above the kettle.
When the watering can switch is pressed, the switch lever retreats away from the rubber pad to open the passage, and the water is rapidly ejected through the hose filtering hole, the rotating port and the nozzle cap through the compressed air to form a water mist or a water raft.
Look at the physical photos, some of the names of the parts, each person's name is different, I may not call the standard, anyway, everyone should see which part of the photo.
Repair the watering can, to troubleshoot, first of all to learn to observe, to be disassembled, but also to be replaced, do not know how to open, can not be loaded back.
In the first case, the spray is not good, and the sprayed mist is not round and unilateral, but there is pressure in the pot. The main thing is to see if there are a few small passages that are blocked.
1 Unscrew the nozzle cap and see if there is any garbage jam in the small hole of the spray cap. The small hole of the spray cap is very small. If there is garbage, it will be unpleasant or not unilateral. Then the board is turned on and off a few times. Normally, 2 water columns should be sprayed evenly.
2 Rotate the copper tube again. When the spray cap has been unscrewed, look at the side of the copper tube from the end of the copper tube. Look at the light. Normally, you can see a trace of light. Otherwise, the garbage is blocked. The wire is cleaned up a few times.
3 plates are switched, the water spray is not round and unilateral, and there is less on the other side. In addition to seeing the half of the small hole of the spray cap, there is no waste, but there are also two carved channels on the nozzle. At the same time, the rotating water flow can be formed (of course, the water flow does not rotate after passing through the small hole of the spray cap), and one of the two channels is blocked, and the sprayed water mist is not round.
4 Unscrew the pot head and see if the filter hole at the lower end of the thin soft tube is clogged. This situation is the most likely to block. The soft conduit is transparent. If the inside of the conduit is clogged, the soft conduit can be pulled out and cleaned with a thin wire.
The source of the garbage particles is mainly used for a long time, and scales and moss are generated on the inner wall of the pot. Unscrew the pot head and look at the inner wall of the pot. It is known that the small particles of scale and moss block the narrow passages in the pot mentioned above, and the water can't be sprayed out.
It is recommended that the flower keeper clean the scale and moss generated on the inner wall of the pot, and it will not cause blockage for a long time. The specific method can pour a small stone in the pot, add some water and then cover the mouth of the pot with the palm of your hand, shake it up and down, let the small stone smash the scale and moss on the inner wall, or wrap the cloth with a hard wire. Wipe it into the pot.
In the second case, it is light to the top and down, and it feels light when there is no handle. There is no pressure in the pot. Water can't be sprayed.
1 Tighten the sealing joints of the three places, especially the pot head and the pot body are often unscrewed and added water, which is not screwed and will leak.
The movable sealing rubber ring (outer diameter 20 mm, inner diameter 14 mm) in the 2 piston combination is worn or has rubbish, and the air is tightly closed. This requires unscrewing the piston barrel and pulling out the piston combination to observe (there is some grease in the piston combination). The added grease that is worn by the movable apron may improve the sealing and reduce the friction.
Huayou WCH proposed to add some sewing machine oil, medical pills, and commonly used butter in the apron position to improve the sealing.
3 The one-way valve at the lower end of the cylinder is aged or embedded with garbage, and the water leakage is not tight. Some one-way valves protrude, which can be clearly seen, but some one-way valves actually stick a thin rubber at the lower end of the cylinder, which cannot be seen carefully.
In the third case, when there is pressure, water is continuously pulled out beside the handlebar until there is no pressure or the water in the kettle leaks. This is to unscrew the cylinder and pull out the piston combination.
1 Mainly look at whether the one-way valve has garbage embedded, whether there is garbage in the piston combination, and if there is garbage, it will close and leak water.
The one-way valve only allows air to enter the kettle and does not allow water to rise. During the inspection, the handle and the piston combination at the lower end can be pulled out, the water is filled in the piston cylinder, the handle and the piston are loaded, and the handle is pressed down, and the water and air can be seen to be ejected from the one-way valve and simultaneously punched. Drop the embedded garbage. Or pull out the one-way valve (the one in the first picture in the photo can be pulled out, the black box in the picture above can not be pulled out, can only be inserted from the edge with a thin piece or nails and then cleaned) Use a small screwdriver to clean up the garbage.
2 There are watering cans, there are 2 hard plastic pieces at the piston, which can restrict the aprons from moving up and down in a small range. One of them can be screwed up and down, such as loose, the distance between the two hard plastic pieces becomes larger. When the apron moves up, it can't seal the air passage, and it will leak water. To tighten the loose hard plastic piece.
In the fourth case, the placement time is long, the original pressure is gone, and it is necessary to check whether the three sealing rubber rings are screwed or aged to cause chronic air leakage.
In the fifth case, there is no plate switch, and there is still water leaking from the nozzle. This is very simple. The switch bar does not tighten the rubber pad. Rotate the copper pipe to see if there is any garbage on the rubber pad and the switch pole. The spring has no elasticity and is stuck by garbage.
In the sixth case, when the switch is sprayed, a large amount of water is dripped at the nozzle, which is to unscrew the spray cap, and the small seal ring (outer diameter 8 mm, inner diameter 3 mm) is aged. It’s leaking.
The method of checking for leaks and leaks is simple and effective: the water in the pot is filled with gas, and the whole pot is dipped under the large washbasin to see where bubbles are coming out. Even a little leak or leak can be clearly displayed. Note that there is a bubble next to the pumping handle, which is a problem with the active sealing rubber ring in the piston combination.
Hehe, these are very simple. You can see how to repair the schematic and physical map. Generally, there is garbage that can be cleaned. It is not worthwhile to change the parts. Buy a new watering can without a few hairs.

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